One of the clearest signals from Milan Design Week is the resurgence of craft. Not as nostalgia (although there was plenty of that on show), but as a marker of value.

Words by Thomas Coward

In 1964 Marshall McLuhan introduced the concept of ‘The Medium is the Message‘ – the idea that the way we receive information matters more than the information itself. Digital media has made this point impossible to ignore. It has reshaped how we experience work of every kind, largely through a screen. A building or a chair will be seen digitally by more people than will ever physically encounter it. The implications for how we make, communicate and perceive design are profound.

During Milan Design Week, in direct contrast to the luxury brands staging elaborate installations where digital reach felt like the higher purpose, I observed a distinct resurgence of craft – skilled and unskilled, sometimes verging on the ugly, but no less valuable for its experimental or subversive nature. Hand carved timber, beaten metal and visibly assembled components were everywhere. Designers were foregrounding process, embracing irregularity and their own limitations in ways that elevate not just the object, but the narrative behind it.

SUR+PLUS by AtMA, MIlan Furniture
SUR+PLUS by AtMA is a project that asks how surplus materials generated within systems of production might be received rather than treated as waste. It also considers how different things, once received, can coexist. Photography by Shunsuke Watanabe.

The mark of the human hand is no longer incidental – it has become the point. Designers are returning to the workshop (or, quite obviously in some cases, the garage or backyard), to produce one-off or small-batch pieces that sit somewhere between design and artefact. Increasingly these works are viewed not for specification purposes, but as objects to be collected.

The shift feels like a reaction to the era of algorithmic sameness. When images, references, and design languages are flattened and circulated at speed, distinction becomes harder to locate. Craft becomes an act of resistance to that flattening, introducing friction, time, and qualities that cannot be easily replicated or scaled.

The emergent aesthetic leans into rawness: exposed joins, rough finishes, and a visible negotiation between idea and execution. Yet there is a tension here. While the desire to make is clearly back, technical mastery has not fully caught up. Many practitioners have been trained to think conceptually rather than to spend years refining a physical craft – and sometimes that shows. The result is visible chaos; an ugliness where nothing matters apart from process.

Collection by Natalia Triantafylli and Andrew Pierce Scott at Alcova Milan, Photography by Piergiorgio Sorgetti.
Collection by Natalia Triantafylli (a ceramicist) and Andrew Pierce Scott (a metalworker) communicates a unique language of the now. Photography by Piergiorgio Sorgetti courtesy of Alcova Milan.
Collection by Natalia Triantafylli and Andrew Pierce Scott at Alcova Milan, Photography by Piergiorgio Sorgetti.
Collection by Natalia Triantafylli and Andrew Pierce Scott at Alcova Milan, Photography by Piergiorgio Sorgetti.
"The emergent aesthetic leans into rawness: exposed joins, rough finishes, and a visible negotiation between idea and execution."
SUR+PLUS by AtMA, MIlan Furniture
The sum of its salvaged parts: joint components connect fragments while preserving cracks, chips, and traces of time. SUR+PLUS by AtMA, photography by Piergiorgio Sorgetti.
SUR+PLUS by AtMA, MIlan Furniture
Sketch courtesy of AtMA.

Underpinning this is a broader de-centring of the brand. For much of the late 20th and early 21st century, brands acted as gatekeepers controlling not only production, but visibility, distribution, and legitimacy. To design was, in many ways, to be absorbed into that system. But those days are passing. The scribble on a napkin no longer needs a brand to bring it into the world.

Digital platforms and direct-to-consumer models have disrupted that structure giving designers the visibility to bypass traditional pathways and step away from mass production models.

Edward Barber | Jay Osgerby. Alphabet, Installation view. Photography by Matteo Pasin at Triennale Milano.
At Triennale Milano, the exhibition 'Edward Barber | Jay Osgerby. Alphabet' explored 30 years of design, from furnishings and products to public commissions, and Barber Osgerby's collaborations with Italian and international brands – the latter a hallmark of their practice. Photography by Matteo Pasin at Triennale Milano.
"A designer or studio no longer needs the infrastructure of a major brand to find an audience."
Edward Barber | Jay Osgerby. Alphabet, Installation view. Photography by Matteo Pasin at Triennale Milano.
In 'Edward Barber | Jay Osgerby. Alphabet' we see how Barber Osgerby's relationships with manufacturers and Italian design brands shaped their practice and wider design culture. Photography by Matteo Pasin at Triennale Milano.

In place of the desk-bound designer emerges a hybrid figure: part thinker, part skilled fabricator, redefining what authorship in design looks like. A designer or studio no longer needs the infrastructure of a major brand to find an audience. In some cases, that association can even dilute the perception of authenticity. As the designer/maker model gains traction, skills become central rather than peripheral.

Value is migrating away from brand and toward the individual. The name attached to a collectible object matters less as a logo and more as an artist’s signature. What is being collected is not just a chair or a table, but a position, a methodology, a way of working.

Inderjeet Sandhu's glass objects are not seamless or unified. They are built from mismatched parts that visibly come together. The patchwork is not a flaw or repair, it is the condition of their existence. The Romance of Fragility / Glass, photography by Piercarlo Quecchia, DSL Studio, Delfino.
"Pieces aren't simply specified, they're sought out, acquired, and lived with as expressions of authorship rather than solutions to a brief."
Combining Czech glass and Italian marble, EROSION by Johan Pertl momentarily suspends this process, using the transparency of glass to reveal what lies beneath the surface. The Romance of Fragility / Glass, photography by DSL Studio, Delfino Sisto Legnani, Piercarlo Quecchia.

If this trajectory continues the return to craft is not a stylistic phase, but a structural one. It indicates a reorganisation of the design ecosystem in which making, authorship, and distribution are once again closely aligned. Individuality becomes the true marker of taste. Pieces are no longer simply specified; they are sought out, acquired, and lived with as expressions of authorship rather than solutions to a brief.

Bringing us back to McLuhan:Societies have always been shaped more by the nature of the media by which [people] communicate than by the content of the communication. The culture of aesthetics has always been determined by the medium of communication, and will continue to be. As the digital tide recalibrates the relationship between designer and brand, an opportunity opens. Brands can choose to become patrons of the new practitioner, and find that genuine collaboration, with equal input from both sides will produce something that neither could achieve alone.

"Individuality becomes the true marker of taste."
This Ferric Glass Table Lamp by Tino Seubert is constructed from six glass panels, almost strangled by a ring of spider hinges, where mechanical excess becomes ornament. The Romance of Fragility / Glass, photography by DSL Studio, Delfino Sisto Legnani, Piercarlo Quecchia.